Bikepacking

Upper Isaan Tour

Contributed by Mark Cunliffe

Upper Isaan, North East Thailand

Upper Isaan Tour

A twelve-stage cycling tour across Upper Isaan in northeast Thailand, following field trails, rural gravel, and the Mekong River overlooking the mountains of Laos.

Distance
800
Stages
12

More at Upper Isaan Tour Route - Komoot

A cycling tour through Upper Isaan in northeast Thailand, following field trails, quiet country roads, and the Mekong Riverbank along the Laos border, sharing the adventure with my wife Jeab. This was an 800 km tour with 47% on unpaved surfaces and the rest on small traffic-free country paved roads and streets. Each day ended at bungalow resort accommodation costing between 350 thb and 690 thb (10 -20 usd).

Route overviewDay 1Day 2Day 3Day 4Day 5Day 6Day 7Day 8Day 9Upper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan TourUpper Isaan Tour

Stage 1: Day 1 - Field Trails and Countryside

Distance
75

The weather was lovely with cloudless blue sky and cool breeze, and the countryside was green wherever we looked. There was a good mix of riding surfaces and types, and in the last third of the ride in particular, with mountain backdrops, the countryside really took on a more beautiful aspect. A good first day. It was very nice to have my wife Jeab come along to share the adventure.

Day 1 - Field Trails and CountrysideDay 1 - Field Trails and CountrysideDay 1 - Field Trails and CountrysideDay 1 - Field Trails and CountrysideDay 1 - Field Trails and CountrysideDay 1 - Field Trails and CountrysideDay 1 - Field Trails and CountrysideDay 1 - Field Trails and CountrysideDay 1 - Field Trails and CountrysideDay 1 - Field Trails and Countryside

Stage 2: Day 2 - Varied Countryside

Distance
75
Unpaved
42

A great day with varied scenery and road types, including 50 km (67%) of unpaved riding.

Day 2 - Varied CountrysideDay 2 - Varied CountrysideDay 2 - Varied CountrysideDay 2 - Varied CountrysideDay 2 - Varied CountrysideDay 2 - Varied CountrysideDay 2 - Varied CountrysideDay 2 - Varied CountrysideDay 2 - Varied CountrysideDay 2 - Varied Countryside

Stage 3: Day 3 - Village Roads to Bungalow Resort

Distance
59

Very different from the previous two days. Very much more about observing urban rural life and the different house styles and designs as we cycled through many villages and along paved country roads. We had some unpaved surfaces too but not as much as on the previous two days. A nice ride. We stayed at a comfortable bungalow resort. The following morning we were set to reach the Mighty Mekong River.

Day 3 - Village Roads to Bungalow ResortDay 3 - Village Roads to Bungalow ResortDay 3 - Village Roads to Bungalow ResortDay 3 - Village Roads to Bungalow ResortDay 3 - Village Roads to Bungalow ResortDay 3 - Village Roads to Bungalow ResortDay 3 - Village Roads to Bungalow ResortDay 3 - Village Roads to Bungalow ResortDay 3 - Village Roads to Bungalow ResortDay 3 - Village Roads to Bungalow Resort

Stage 4: Day 4 - To the Mekong River

Distance
70

Today we reached the Mekong River! The ride was an absolute joy from start to finish. It really was that good. Great cycling on a mix of road types through a wide variety of scenic countryside and riverside. We stayed at a wonderful bungalow resort with good food options nearby, including a night market and a 7-Eleven.

Day 4 - To the Mekong RiverDay 4 - To the Mekong RiverDay 4 - To the Mekong RiverDay 4 - To the Mekong RiverDay 4 - To the Mekong RiverDay 4 - To the Mekong RiverDay 4 - To the Mekong RiverDay 4 - To the Mekong RiverDay 4 - To the Mekong RiverBlue water from Laos flowing into the brown Mekong River

Stage 5: Day 5 - Mekong Rock Garden

Distance
73

A great day. The highlights were the first 30 km, unexpectedly seeing the Mekong Rock Garden, and finding a 'secret' riverside path alongside the Mekong which had the most spectacular views of the river and Laos mountains.

Day 5 - Mekong Rock GardenDay 5 - Mekong Rock GardenDay 5 - Mekong Rock GardenDay 5 - Mekong Rock GardenDay 5 - Mekong Rock GardenDay 5 - Mekong Rock GardenThe Mekong River 'rock garden'The Mekong River 'rock garden'Day 5 - Mekong Rock GardenThe northern-most point of N.E. Thailand

Stage 6: Day 6 - Riverside to Laos Border Views

Distance
78

A very enjoyable cycle with 22% unpaved riding. There was lots to keep our interest along the way, and some superb panoramic views along the Mekong River looking across to the mountains of Laos. We stayed in a riverside bungalow resort overlooking the river. If we were going to take a rest day on this tour, this would be the ideal place to do so.

Day 6 - Riverside to Laos Border ViewsDay 6 - Riverside to Laos Border ViewsDay 6 - Riverside to Laos Border ViewsDay 6 - Riverside to Laos Border ViewsDay 6 - Riverside to Laos Border ViewsDay 6 - Riverside to Laos Border ViewsDay 6 - Riverside to Laos Border ViewsThe New Thailand-Laos Friendship Bridge at Bueng KanDay 6 - Riverside to Laos Border ViewsDay 6 - Riverside to Laos Border Views

Stage 7: Day 7 - Along the Mekong to Pondside Resort

Distance
54

After taking a rest day the day before, this was our seventh day of cycling. It was a fairly short ride. It was the last day next to the Mekong River and Laos, and the route was designed to give us maximum exposure to both. A very enjoyable cycle, especially the very nice first 40 km. The last section was on a less interesting bigger road. We relaxed in a very nice resort next to a pond.

Day 7 - Along the Mekong to Pondside ResortDay 7 - Along the Mekong to Pondside ResortDay 7 - Along the Mekong to Pondside ResortDay 7 - Along the Mekong to Pondside ResortDay 7 - Along the Mekong to Pondside ResortDay 7 - Along the Mekong to Pondside ResortDay 7 - Along the Mekong to Pondside ResortDay 7 - Along the Mekong to Pondside ResortDay 7 - Along the Mekong to Pondside ResortDay 7 - Along the Mekong to Pondside Resort

Stage 8: Day 8 - Traffic-Free Country Trails

Distance
82
Unpaved
60

Our longest cycle yet, with 60 km unpaved representing 72% of the route, the most off-road we had done in a day. We encountered little to no traffic throughout the ride. We passed only one four-wheel vehicle in the first 20 km, and by 30 km we had passed just two four-wheel vehicles. That trend continued throughout our ride as we enjoyed really nice cycling on quiet, traffic-free roads and trails deep in the countryside. Perfect.

Day 8 - Traffic-Free Country TrailsDay 8 - Traffic-Free Country TrailsDay 8 - Traffic-Free Country TrailsDay 8 - Traffic-Free Country TrailsDay 8 - Traffic-Free Country TrailsDay 8 - Traffic-Free Country TrailsDay 8 - Traffic-Free Country TrailsDay 8 - Traffic-Free Country TrailsDay 8 - Traffic-Free Country TrailsDay 8 - Traffic-Free Country Trails

Stage 9: Day 9 - Rice Fields and Distant Mountains

Distance
57

Mostly on unnoteworthy paved roads. The last 10 km or so was on smaller gravel and concrete roads surrounded by beautiful rice fields and distant mountains. The ride ended at a very nice bungalow resort.

Day 9 - Rice Fields and Distant MountainsDay 9 - Rice Fields and Distant MountainsDay 9 - Rice Fields and Distant MountainsDay 9 - Rice Fields and Distant MountainsDay 9 - Rice Fields and Distant MountainsDay 9 - Rice Fields and Distant MountainsDay 9 - Rice Fields and Distant MountainsDay 9 - Rice Fields and Distant MountainsDay 9 - Rice Fields and Distant MountainsDay 9 - Rice Fields and Distant Mountains

Stage 10: Day 10 - Rural Gravel and Villages

Distance
66
Unpaved
38

With 38 km unpaved (59%), the first 40 km in particular was great. Cyclist paradise Isaan style. Lots of small gravel and traffic-free rural paved roads passing through stunning Isaan countryside: rice fields, mountains, lakes, jungle, uplands, lowlands, sleepy little villages, peace and tranquility. Absolutely wonderful.

Day 10 - Rural Gravel and VillagesDay 10 - Rural Gravel and VillagesDay 10 - Rural Gravel and VillagesDay 10 - Rural Gravel and VillagesDay 10 - Rural Gravel and VillagesDay 10 - Rural Gravel and VillagesDay 10 - Rural Gravel and VillagesDay 10 - Rural Gravel and VillagesDay 10 - Rural Gravel and VillagesDay 10 - Rural Gravel and Villages

Stage 11: Day 1 1- Lampao Reservoir and Dam

Distance
79

A good ride although a lot of it was on biggish paved roads, with 27% unpaved. The star attraction was the Lampao Reservoir waters and dam, which did not disappoint. The weather got increasingly hot as the morning wore on. The top temperature reached 33°C with a 'feels like' of 39°C according to the weather app. That, and a breeze of only 5 km/h, certainly made it feel hot. We were happy to reach the resort at 13:15, have a refreshing shower, and relax in a cool air-conditioned and fan-cooled room.

Day 1 1- Lampao Reservoir and DamDay 1 1- Lampao Reservoir and DamDay 1 1- Lampao Reservoir and DamDay 1 1- Lampao Reservoir and DamDay 1 1- Lampao Reservoir and DamDay 1 1- Lampao Reservoir and DamDay 1 1- Lampao Reservoir and DamDay 1 1- Lampao Reservoir and DamDay 1 1- Lampao Reservoir and DamDay 1 1- Lampao Reservoir and Dam

Stage 12: Day 12 - Lampao Reservoir to the Finish

Distance
47

A great end to our tour, with 56% unpaved riding. The first 12 km cycling along the southern edge of Lampao Reservoir provided superb scenery of prawn ponds and the reservoir's waters. Spectacular, and totally unknown to most Thais. Anywhere else in Thailand this area would be a major tourist attraction. We then headed south inland towards the finish line. It was beautiful rice countryside to cycle through and fitting scenery to end our tour.

Day 12 - Lampao Reservoir to the FinishDay 12 - Lampao Reservoir to the FinishDay 12 - Lampao Reservoir to the FinishDay 12 - Lampao Reservoir to the FinishDay 12 - Lampao Reservoir to the FinishDay 12 - Lampao Reservoir to the FinishDay 12 - Lampao Reservoir to the FinishDay 12 - Lampao Reservoir to the FinishDay 12 - Lampao Reservoir to the FinishDay 12 - Lampao Reservoir to the Finish

Closing thoughts

HOW GOOD THE TOUR WAS: This tour by far exceeded our expectations. We basically experienced every kind of countryside and cycling surface Isaan has to offer: lowlands, uplands, mountains, rivers, rice fields and farmland. The countryside scenery was spectacular. Green, green, green everywhere and the scenery along the roof of Isaan overlooking the Mekong River towards Laos and her mountains was really special. All the roads (well, 99%) , both paved and unpaved, were almost traffic-free. Empty. No engine noise, no stress, no worry about vehicles zooming past. It made for very pleasant cycling.

BEST TIME OF YEAR TO TOUR: The conventional wisdom on cycling in Thailand is to cycle during the cold season - November through to end of February. And this is generally good advice. However, this tour showed us that in Isaan, for the most incredible green rice field scenery, October is surely the best month. We started the ride with the most green, lush rice you can imagine, but by the end of the ride, that green was fading as heavy rice heads were emerging, and the rice was ripening. The start of the harvest season was imminent and in some places just starting. After the harvest, which mostly takes place in early November, you are left with desolate muddy fields with yellow rice stems and a sun burnt landscape. The incredible beauty of the landscape is greatly diminished. But be aware, planning to cycle in October is a gamble. Late monsoon rains and the occasional big storm coming in from Vietnam can happen and with so much unpaved trails on the route, that can make the cycling conditions more challenging. On this tour the Isaan rainy season had just finished and the transition to cool season was just beginning. But the timing of this can vary by year. It is possible to get rain in October but mostly, here in Isaan, it does not rain during the day. Heavy, short showers early evening are the norm. You can expect to cycle rain-free during the day. The gravel trails here are generally well made and maintained and do not get waterlogged and overly muddy. But there are always exceptions to this. Most of the gravel on this tour was hard-baked, compact and easy riding. We encountered some short sections with deep sand particularly on the uplands, on day 2 of the tour. It was an inconvenience but easily hike-a-bikeable.

BEST TIME OF DAY TO TOUR: We started early and finished early to minimise the time spent in the hotter parts of the day. And because the early part of the day is when the magic happens. The morning skyline and light lends a real beauty to the landscape and most Thai people are up and about doing things in these early hours. You get to observe real Thai village and country life. And it is good to see. So, we start at the crack of dawn and aim to end the ride mid-dayish.

ACCOMMODATION: We planned our days around accommodation. It's easier and more convenient than camping. Thailand and Isaan are blessed with a high number of high quality, budget, traveller accommodations, with hotels and bungalow resorts readily available. Google maps is the best source of finding these in the more off the beaten track areas we toured. Pre-booking is not necessary. The bungalows were great value for money. Most had all modern conveniences including air conditioning, hot showers, refrigerators, kettle and coffee making facilities, Price between 350 Thai baht and 690 Thai baht. All were near shops and restaurants. Staying at these bungalow resorts allowed us to pack very light. Clothes were washed and hung out to dry at each place. And hoses to wash down bikes readily available too.

ARE DOGS A PROBLEM?: There are a lot of free roaming dogs in this part of Thailand. The dogs are rarely vicious and to get bitten is rare. However, a dog being a dog, many do like to bark at cyclists, some like to run with cyclists for the pleasure of joining you (the pack dog instinct), and sometimes, a minority of dogs will aggressively chase. All this can be easily managed without aggression on your part. I simply slam and release my brakes and utter a loud guttural noise (Uhy!) - that usually stops the dog chasing. Repeat if not. If still not, stop the bike. The dogs will stop chasing and barking and back away. You may have some other system to deter chasing dogs but this works for us. However, the point to note is this. I have never seen so many households that seem to own dogs than on this tour. Furthermore, when owning a dog, a high percentage of people seem to own a whole pack of them. 3,4,5, or more dogs. Even if the owner is present, and most often they are not, they generally have minimal control of the dog/s. It can feel unnerving at times when a group of dogs come to enthusiastically welcome you past. So, you do need to be confident in dealing with this. Psychologically, cycling together as a pair can help.

SAFETY: We felt totally safe. The people of Isaan are renowned for their friendliness. If you have any problems they will go out of their way to help. Although the route is often deep into the countryside, that countryside is well populated with people going about their daily business. Going to and from their fields, taking cows or water buffalo out to graze, planting or harvesting crops, weeding and maintaining their fields, fishing, collecting fire wood, working around their houses etc. if you need assistance, people are close by to help. The people are bi-lingual but generally do not speak any English. Their everyday language is Isaan Thai (Lao), but they speak and understand Thai too.

FOOD AND DRINK: Most of the villages and small towns this route passes through have places selling cold drinks and snacks. Hot sit-down food is also available in many of these places. We stopped frequently in villages for cold drinks and to fill up our water bottles. Most days we ate a mid-morning hot lunch. Food and drink options were available close to our days accommodation. Please note: For the small family run momma and poppa shops you should remove your shoes before entering.

THE PROBLEM WITH GPS ROUTE PLANNERS: Finally, a word about Komoot or whatever gps route planner you use. They all rely on very out of date open source satellite images. Thailand has been undertaking a very ambitious and relentless road building, and road widening program over the last 10-15 years, in particular. As part of that road network development program, lots of gravel trails and dirt roads have been, and continue to be, concreted over. This makes cycling in all weather conditions easier but does mean that the paved and unpaved route profile statistics Komoot, Cycle with GPS, etc, are likely to be misleading. Sometimes misleading in a big way, sometimes in a less big way. So, you need to take the road profile statistics as a rough guide rather than a literal truth. If you like cycling gravel and off-road, Isaan is most probably the best place in Thailand left to cycle on these. This tour still offers a good amount of gravel / unpaved (officially 375 km of it or 47% of the route). Some of that unpaved is now concreted over but much still remains. Related to the out of date data the gps planners use, if you are planning to devise your own route along the Mekong River, be aware, there are some river path sections right next to the river, that aren't showing in the planners. Some sections show only a short section of path when in-fact it now runs a more considerable distance. Some sections still do stop in the middle of nowhere with no clear way back to the road. When planning our route I have had to look at Google Earth to see the possibility of a path (the satellite images are more up-to-date) and then planned off-grid on Komoot to go along some of these sections. Day 5, day six and day 7 have these sections. You should definitely check these sections out because the views, particularly on day 6 of the Mekong and the mountains of Laos, are spectacular and you won't see them otherwise.

Highlights

Whereabouts

Food

Trail Notes

Weather Window