Gravel Riding
The Two Reservoirs Circuit
Contributed by Mark Cunliffe
Isaan, Thailand

A four-day gravel and backroad cycling tour around the Ubonrat and Lam Pao reservoirs in Thailand's Isaan region, mixing unpaved tracks with quiet rural lanes.
- Days
- 4
- Distance
- 330
- Hours
- 8
- Stages
- 4
More at Facebook post
A four-day bike tour looping around the Ubonrat and Lam Pao reservoirs in northeast Thailand, linking quiet paved backroads, dirt tracks, farmed countryside and the Isaan highlands.






Stage 1: Day 1 - The two reservoirs circuit
- Distance
- 90
- Hours
- 8
A trip of almost eight hours on the first day of the circuit: 90 km with 61% unpaved. It was a most enjoyable first day.





Stage 2: Day 2 - Ubonrat Reservoir
- Distance
- 74
- Unpaved
- 20
Another highly enjoyable day. An early start, partly because I wanted to end cycling earlier in the day to get out of the heat as soon as possible, but mainly because having woken up at 4 a.m., I couldn't get back to sleep again. Every cell in my body wanted just one thing: to get on the bike and start riding!
The route had just 20 km of the total 74 km unpaved. But what a glorious start, straight onto a great section of unpaved track. Then onto the mainly paved road to the beautiful Ubonrat Reservoir and up along its shore. Actually a very nice 25 km or so on quiet, predominantly traffic-free paved road. As soon as we turned off away from the reservoir I was back onto a nice section of unpaved and previously unpaved road. Lovely cycling through wonderful farmed countryside. It was pretty much superb off-road from then on, bar some paved road sections, to get me to my bungalow resort. I got there just before midday. It was a great day.





Stage 3: Day 3 - Towards Lam Pao Reservoir
- Distance
- 89
- Unpaved
- 56
An early start to the day and a beautiful sunrise. It was a superb day of cycling along a great mix of trails and small roads through some lovely countryside: 89 km with 56 km unpaved (65%). It was very hot. I was happy to reach my destination around 13:00, have a refreshing shower and enjoy the cold air conditioning.





Stage 4: Day 4 - Lam Pao Dam and Isaan Highlands
- Distance
- 77
A great final day of the tour: 77 km with 32% unpaved. Some amazing sunrise skylines. A delightful cycle along the Lam Pao Reservoir dam, then cycling through the unique and beautiful shrimp pond countryside on the banks of the southern section of the reservoir. Then, enjoying the final edges of the reservoir's southern waters before cycling up to the Isaan highlands and then down through the scenic rice field countryside to the end point of the tour. I got home midday.






Highlights
- Riding the shore of Ubonrat Reservoir on quiet, predominantly traffic-free paved roads.
- Sunrise skylines across the rural landscape.
- The crossing along the crest of Lam Pao Reservoir dam.
- The unique shrimp pond countryside skirting the southern waters of Lam Pao.
- Descending from the Isaan highlands through scenic rice paddies.
Trail Notes
- Expect a substantial mix of unpaved farm tracks, dirt trails, and quiet rural tarmac.
- Surface conditions vary widely from rough dirt to smooth pavement.
- Navigation through the farm tracks and shrimp pond bunds requires attention to turns.
Weather Window
- Heat builds quickly by midday; start riding at dawn or first light to finish before the hottest hours.
- Air-conditioned accommodation makes recovery much easier in the afternoon heat.