Bikepacking
Riding the Swedish Coastline
Contributed by Luke Holiday
Sweden, Denmark and Norway
Three months riding the coastline of Sweden and beyond on an electric mountain bike, starting from Denmark and looping north to the Finnish border and into Norway.
I came over from Australia and spent three months riding the entire Swedish coastline (and then some!).
I started in Kolding, Denmark, and rode up to Frederikshavn to catch the ferry to Göteborg on June 10th. From Göteborg, I hugged the coastline following parts of EuroVelo 10, the West Coast Trail, and the South Coast Trail. Once I hit Stockholm, I took the ferry over to Gotland—an absolute highlight of the whole trip, it's beautiful!
After that, I made my way up to Haparanda on the Finnish border. There were tons of awesome free rest cabins (vindskydd) to stay in along the way, some even with saunas. Then I took a mix of riding and trains back down to Göteborg via Gävle and Lake Vänern, and rode straight up into Norway. The ride from Göteborg to Norway following the unmarked section of the North Sea Trail right along the archipelago waters was super nice.
My first trip back in Australia was done with a put-together, makeshift setup. This time I wanted a better rig, but ended up buying an electric mountain bike with a rear rack and picking up whatever bags and gear I could find at second-hand stores. It wasn't perfect, but every time I stopped to visit friends, I upgraded, swapped, or ditched gear.
Over the whole ride, I only ended up with two punctures and a broken pedal, plus replacing a rear rim after a dropped chain chewed into the spokes. All in all, pretty reliable.
Highlights
- Taking the ferry from Stockholm to Gotland to ride the island.
- Free rest cabins with wood-fired saunas along the route north to Haparanda.
- The unmarked stretch of the North Sea Trail north of Göteborg, tracking right along the archipelago waters into Norway.
Camping
- Sweden's right to roam (allemansrätten) makes wild camping straightforward almost anywhere along the route.
- Northern Sweden has numerous free shelters (vindskydd), and some even have saunas.
- Free shelters are much rarer in Norway, so a tent is essential once you cross the border.
Food
- You can get by without a stove by cooking over open fires where fire pits are provided.
- Sandwiches, cheese, and cold meats bought from supermarkets make easy everyday riding fuel.
Costs & Finances
- Total living and travel costs averaged around $1,000 AUD (about 600 EUR or 6,800 SEK) per month without strict budgeting.
Trail Notes
- The coastal route links together sections of EuroVelo 10, the West Coast Trail, and the South Coast Trail.
- Between Gävle and Göteborg via Lake Vänern, trains can be used alongside riding to bridge longer gaps.
- The section of the North Sea Trail heading from Göteborg into Norway is largely unmarked but stays right on the water.
Gear
- An electric mountain bike with a sturdy rear rack handles the mixed terrain well.
- Prioritise a comfortable saddle, ergonomic handlebars, and low enough gearing for the climbs.
- Carry a full-sized pump: small hand pumps are frustrating and slow for frequent tyre top-ups.