Off-Road Trip
Off roading through high desert and mountain, then crossing into Chile
Contributed by Paul Cussens
Southwestern Bolivia to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
A 4WD crossing across the high-altitude desert and passes of southwestern Bolivia, stopping at Laguna Colorada and the Sol de Manana geysers before crossing the border into Chile at Hito Cajon and descending to San Pedro de Atacama.
- Distance
- 125
- High point
- 4900
- Low point
- 2407
Also found on Paul's Travel Blog
We left at 6.30am as we had another long day across difficult terrain in the 4WD vehicles. We expected to drive about 125 miles, crossing the border into Chile at a mountain pass (Hito Cajon).
We woke up to find it was -6c in our very remote, lagoon-side, mountain-surrounded hotel. We were so close to the Chilean border that my phone switched to Chilean time, which was a bit confusing as they were an hour ahead.
Almost as soon as we left, we were off-roading across rock, gravel, and sand. There were literally no roads. We stopped briefly at a couple of lagoons to take photos, then headed off again across the wide open plains of sand and rock, with little bits of snow along the way. We were slowly heading upwards, and after an hour and a half, we stopped on a vast plain to look over to the Chilean border at the foot of distant red, green, snow-capped mountains.
Ten minutes further and we came across a rocky area with a lot of vizcachas, a type of rabbit with a long tail. They bounded around the rocks and didn't seem to mind people. After another half hour of off-roading we stopped to look at some unusual rock formations.
Next we visited the blood-red Laguna Colorada. Three of the world's six flamingo species can be found here: Chilean, Andean and James's flamingos, with the latter being incredibly rare and thought to be extinct until the 1950s. The red lagoon looked amazing with the flamingos and, as an added bonus, some vicunas drinking.
After a further hour bumping over the high-altitude plain and over the mountains, including a pass over 4,900m, we stopped at the 'Sol de Manana' geysers in Bolivia, at 4,857m (16,076ft) altitude. The hot steam and bubbling mud pots provided a strange contrast to the serene salt flats we had seen. There was a strong sulphurous smell all around.
Ten minutes later we pulled up at a big blue lake where bizarrely there was a cafe, and a large hot pool to bathe in. We had an early lunch there, looking out over the lake and mountains, before pressing on. Next stop was 15 minutes up the gravel road to see the Salvador Dali desert, so called because of a selection of random rock structures dotted across the sandy landscape. Our final stop was at the Green Lagoon, a lovely blue-green lake surrounded by high snow-dappled peaks.
At the Chilean border at Hito Cajon (4,500m / 14,764ft), we left our 4WD vehicles behind and switched back into a minibus, before continuing towards San Pedro de Atacama (2,407m / 7,897ft) for the evening. I love border crossings despite the potential issues for hold-ups, and this one was a particularly stark and remote border post. Getting out of Bolivia was relatively simple. We then drove across three miles of no-man's-land to the Chilean border. There we had our passports stamped then luggage checked with some random searches, and were on our way.
Leaving the border there was an immediate change as we were on good quality tarmac roads. It was downhill all the way to San Pedro de Atacama at 2,407m. The temperature there was reported to be 32c, which was nice after the -6c high-altitude start. The drive took us across the Atacama Desert once we had descended the mountain, and we were at the town within 40 minutes. Our hotel was on the main street, within easy walking distance of everything. It was strange to see traffic and people after where we had been in the previous couple of days. The town appeared fairly low key, small, and dusty.
Highlights
- Laguna Colorada, home to Chilean, Andean, and rare James's flamingos feeding in the red waters alongside vicunas.
- Sol de Manana geysers at 4,857m altitude, featuring bubbling mud pots and rising steam.
- Salvador Dali desert, with distinct rock sculptures isolated in the sandy landscape.
- Laguna Verde, set beneath high snow-dusted Andean peaks.
- Watching vizcachas scurrying across the boulder fields.
Must-Know
- Border logistics at Hito Cajon require crossing a three-mile stretch of unpaved no-man's-land between the Bolivian and Chilean customs checkpoints.
- Expect massive temperature swings in a single day, ranging from -6C at dawn on the altiplano to above 30C upon reaching San Pedro de Atacama.
Trail Notes
- The Bolivian leg requires 4WD vehicles capable of navigating deep sand, loose gravel, and rock tracks without paved roads.
- The route crosses high mountain passes over 4,900m before reaching the Chilean border.
- Tarmac resumes immediately on the Chilean side of Hito Cajon for the continuous downhill run to San Pedro de Atacama.
Permits
- Passport exit stamps from Bolivian migration and entry processing into Chile at Hito Cajon.
- Chilean customs conducts vehicle and luggage checks at the border post.
Hazards
- Extreme altitude exceeding 4,900m along the Bolivian plateau and mountain passes.
- Severe sub-zero temperatures and biting cold during early morning starts.